what to do after chicks hatch under hen
What to Expect When Your Hen is Expecting
– helpful tips for the backyard chicken keeper –
Is My Hen Really Broody?
And so My Hen is Broody, Now What?
Broody Care
Soiled or Muddied Nests
Trouble Broody Hens
The Hatching Process
The First Few Days of Life
Terrible Mother Hens
Using a broody hen is definitely the easiest and nigh natural way of bringing baby chicks into this earth. But merely considering something is easier and more natural, doesn't hateful it'due south fool proof, guaranteed or void of any risks and problems. Our mother hens have hatched more than eggs than we can count hither on the subcontract and we have experienced just most every undesirable situation you can recollect of. With all of the benefits that come from hatching chicks the natural way, we think the good definitely outweigh the bad, but it does take a piddling knowledge and conscientious planning for a successful feel each and every fourth dimension.
The following information pertains to letting a broody hen follow through with hatching chicks. It is our belief that it is unnecessary, irresponsible and cruel to let a hen sit down for extended periods of time on unfertilized eggs, faux eggs, rocks, golf game balls etc. or to simply take eggs away from her and hope she will stop being broody. Removing eggs volition not stop a broody hen from sitting. A very dedicated broody volition sit down indefinitely and will even die of starvation, dehydration, weight loss or parasites before giving upwardly and returning to the flock. If you have no intention of letting her sit and hatch real eggs, or y'all are unable to do and then for whatever reason, it is important to "suspension" her of her broodiness as soon as possible. The longer you wait to suspension a hen of being broody, the harder it is.
IS MY HEN REALLY BROODY?
-Broody or Bullied?
Then you have a hen that has been camping out in the nesting boxes, a spaced-out look in her eyes, growls or puffs up her feathers when anyone or anything comes shut. She must be broody, right? Usually…but not always. Sometimes hens will appear to be going broody for other reasons. Peradventure there accept been new additions to the flock and this has stressed her out a bit. There could be a new or young rooster seeking her out and she decides hiding in the nesting boxes is a peaceful retreat. She could too be feeling sick and looking for a cozy place to residue. If it'south cold outside, sitting on a warm pile of eggs might only be besides relaxing to get upward. Or peradventure a recent predator assail has led her to camp out inside the safety of the coop. If you have a hen that is inside more out, and sitting on eggs more she is eating and socializing with the flock, requite her a thorough wellness check before bold she is broody. If you lot suspect bullying may be the cause of her self-isolation, don't separate her from the flock unless she is in danger of existence injure as doing so will simply make the bullying worse when y'all endeavour to reintroduce her. Instead, locate the bully and separate the bully from the flock to meet if that improves the hiding hens socialization habits. If the hen isn't ill, and isn't the victim of some mean bullies, you may take a hen that wants to hatch some chicks!
-Testing for Broodiness
In the initial stages of the hormone surge that causes a hen to go broody, she may be trying out a few different spots to hunker down and may move from nest to nest several times a day. A good mode to tell that a hen is at least seriously practicing going the long haul of sitting, will be the start nighttime she sleeps in her nesting spot instead of roosting with the others. If she is yet in that location in the morning, even with the busy rustling almost of other hens trying to lay their eggs, y'all tin bet she is indeed broody. The surefire manner to bank check and make sure a hen is broody and ready to commit to the 21 days is to pick her up out of her nest (carefully, as she may peck you) and gently set her back down in a different spot. If she immediately sits back down and has the appearance of melting back into the ground, she is broody. If she runs or walks away every bit shortly as y'all put her down, she isn't ready to sit.
And then MY HEN IS BROODY, NOW WHAT?
-Nesting Locations
Broody hens volition choose their nesting spot carefully. Their instinct is to cull a spot that is safety and off the ground and where there are, of form, enough of eggs. This means that the obvious selection is a nice comfy nesting box. But a broody hen camping out for 21 days in a nesting box can cause a lot of problems. First, a hen that takes up residence full-time in a nesting box can mean one less place for other hens to lay their eggs, which can cause stress and feet among hens if you take limited infinite for laying inside your coop. Eggs may offset showing up in weird and undesirable locations, like in the middle of the flooring of the coop, outside in the runs, under the roosts, etc.
If your hens are friendly with each other, they will just hop into the nesting box with the broody hen and double up to lay their eggs. The broody volition and then roll the eggs right underneath her subsequently. The more the merrier! Suddenly you accept a hen incubating 25+ eggs all laid on different days. Even if you have marked your initial eggs for her to sit on, you lot will have to check underneath her every twenty-four hours to remove the new and unmarked eggs earlier they start to develop. This ways lifting her completely up and off the nest to call up the eggs that don't belong there, potentially altering the delicate humidity levels necessary for a healthy hatch. While the eggs are developing, this might not cause as well many problems, just during the 3 days before and during hatch, irresolute the humidity levels might prove fatal to the chicks. Also, if your hen is aggressive (more on this afterwards), this daily ritual of reaching underneath her might not be an enjoyable experience for you.
On the other hand, other hens might not take too kindly to a broody taking over their favorite nesting box and might peck, push or peachy her off the nest repeatedly. This scenario is also dangerous every bit the shuffling around of many different hens might lead to broken eggs in the nest which could contaminate the whole clutch. A contaminated clutch usually means starting over again with a whole new set up of eggs.
Another reason that the nesting boxes are non a practiced location for a broody to sit is that she volition more than than probable get up at least once per day to eat, drinkable water, poop and/or dust bathe. While this is a good thing that she gets up every 24-hour interval, a big warm clutch of eggs is a hen magnet merely asking to exist saturday on. The broody will exist, past instinct, in a large bustle to return dorsum to her nest after taking care of herself and more times than non, some other hen will be sitting in her nest laying an egg when she returns. If there is another pile of eggs to sit on nearby, even if information technology's only one egg, she will choose to sit there instead to wait for the hen to finish. But soon after laying back down her "broody trance" volition boot dorsum in and she volition not get back upwards even after the hen has left her nest, and the developing eggs will go common cold and die. This has happened to me many many times and it's very discouraging.
Lastly, if your hen is allowed to hatch a clutch of eggs in a nesting box that is raised upward off the ground. The newly hatched chicks may autumn out of the nesting box onto the ground beneath which is bad news for several obvious reasons.
If your hens free range regularly, and experience safe doing so, a hen may choose to brand a nest outside rather than within. Although rare among lawn chicken flocks, this usually happens when a hen is not controlled or bonded with a rooster. For many obvious reasons, a hen sitting on a clutch outside is not the best scenario. She and her eggs volition be in abiding danger from predators, exposed to the elements, and more than susceptible to bacterial contamination.
-Moving the Broody
The longer a broody hen has been sitting in her chosen nesting location, the more attached to that location she will be. It is possible to move a broody to a new identify subsequently she's been sitting for awhile but it's much more than difficult. Information technology's easiest if you motility her as soon as you find she is broody. If possible, moving a broody hen at night is also easier as they are less probable to want to go upward and run around and volition settle downward easier in the night.
There are a couple of unlike means to movement a broody hen, and nosotros choose a method based on how long she has been broody/sitting. If you are able to recognize correct abroad that she has gone broody (a couple days at nearly) you lot tin can move her by picking her upwardly and placing her back down in your new location. Keep in mind that with this method, no thing how long she has been broody, she will well-nigh probable rebel confronting this motion and within a few minutes she will attempt to go dorsum to her original nesting spot. And so for this reason, you do need to confine her to this space until she accepts the new spot every bit her ain and settles downward at her ain gratis volition. A roomy cage or kennel works well for this. It usually takes my newly broody hens effectually 10-15 minutes or less to accept the new location and hunker down quietly and peacefully. Before that happens, however, the hen will commonly exist quite upset about y'all moving her and will squawk loudly, stride back and forth and seem quite obsessed and adamant to get back to her original nest. Considering of this, avoid giving her any food or water in the new location until she settles downwardly and do not put the eggs you intend on hatching in the new nest location with her right away. Utilize fake or ceramic eggs or a small clutch of eggs that y'all don't mind potentially getting cleaved equally she will most likely stride or jump on them in her crazy stuper. It is her motherly, hormonal instinct to get back to her original nesting spot, but moving her to a safer location is necessary for both her overall health and the health of her future offspring. When she settles down over the fake or dummy eggs and she is quiet, give her a few more minutes to relax before changing out the eggs in the nest to the real ones you lot want to hatch.
If the hen has been broody for awhile (more than a few days), our chosen method of moving her is on her nest. Considering a broody hen's instinct is to stay laying downwardly covering her eggs, it's surprisingly easy to motion her this style without her trying to go up or protesting the move. Depending on the nesting materials underneath her, y'all can commonly reach completely underneath the nest and advisedly elevator the entire affair up with her still laying down on information technology. This works well with strong hay or straw bedding. With two easily underneath the nest to keep everything together, you tin move her and her nest and place in a shallow open box or crate and move her that fashion. If the new nesting location is close by, you tin can just carefully move her from one location to the next to avoid multiple transfers and messing with her likewise much. Have another pair of hands or a helper if possible to gently place a hand over her dorsum to continue her calm. You too cover her with a soft towel or sheet if she is one to be anxious or stressed. If she is on looser materials such as pine shavings, advisedly push button a strong board underneath her unabridged nest and move her that way. The hen's rounded torso should concur the eggs in place underneath her while you move her, just if you're worried about eggs falling or breaking, you can accomplish underneath her and remove them temporarily until she is in her new location. Of class, if the eggs she is sitting on are the ones you intend to hatch, handle them extremely carefully with freshly washed hands. Since you oasis't actually moved her off of her original nest, you've just moved the nest's location, the hen will non ordinarily oppose this move, especially if she has been broody for some time.
BROODY CARE
-Her Basic Necessities
Because a broody hen's physical activities volition come up to a quick halt as she begins to sit, and because she will finish laying eggs during this period, her food requirements will also exist reduced. Y'all will observe her eating and drinking much less than normal, simply it is still crucial that she have admission to food and clean water at all times of the twenty-four hour period. Near broody hens will become upward at least once a twenty-four hours in the initial stages of sitting. They volition want to chop-chop stretch their legs, eat, beverage fresh water, poop and perhaps even get a quick dust bathroom in. If you are keeping your broody in a bars surface area or space, make certain to identify her nutrient and water every bit far abroad from the nest as possible so that she is forced to get up and stretch and hopefully poop away from the nest likewise. If you lot have no fashion to allow her access to a dust bathing area, it's a good idea to dust her lesser, and underneath her wings with something that will protect her from external parasites, (you might check out our Coop Fairy Dust nosotros created for this purpose and many others as well).
-Pecking Order Issues
It's always a good thought to isolate your broody hens from the rest of the flock for many reasons. As I discussed before in this article, broody hens can exist easy targets for bullying from other hens that are simply bored or just overall aggressive by nature. Most adult hens volition get out a broody alone, except to cozy upward with her, peck at her a little (innocently) and lay their eggs by her to add to her clutch. But some hens and especially pullets or cockerels might desire to practice bullying her because they themselves are lower in the pecking society. Protective roosters won't be in the coop at all times to police the broody from unwanted attention (and mostly don't protect broody hens anyway considering they aren't currently mating with them regularly) and then this leaves an exposed broody hen literally like a sitting duck in the hen firm. But completely isolating a broody hen, such equally moving her into the business firm or garage, etc., volition present a off-white share of problems too. For i, the flock will forget near her existence over the form of the 21 days (and however long after the chicks hatch before you render her total time to the flock). Which means she will most likely lose her place in the pecking order, and therefore lose the protective nature of the very delicate and well-nigh important attribute of the pecking order, respect. The other hens of the flock could run across her (and her new babies) as a newcomer and therefore a potential threat among the flock and the rooster(due south) will run across her as a new girl to conquer and volition hunt her relentlessly to mate with her and attempt to control her.
Many people always ask me if I remove my broody hens or new female parent hens from the flock and the short reply is no. The all-time scenario is where the broody hen stays with the flock at all times, simply is in a protected environment while she sits for the 21 days and for at least a week later on the chicks hatch. In our coop, we accept a split up large muzzle congenital in where the flock tin can see her everyday and night, but they tin can't get to her (she is protected, the eggs are protected, and no new eggs can exist added to the clutch). Nosotros have a big door to arrive and make clean the nest if need be, candle eggs, care for the broody or the newly hatched chicks, etc. and a small-scale door that tin exist opened or airtight to let her out each mean solar day to take care of herself. Fifty-fifty though there is plenty space to put her ain supply of food and h2o in the cage with her, we don't. This way she will accept to leave the muzzle in the coop and join the rest of the flock to eat, potable, poop, grit breast-stroke, etc. and she doesn't lose her place in the pecking order and remains a familiar face among them. This is pretty important considering it too means that when she emerges from her cage full fourth dimension in a few weeks or even days afterward her chicks hatch, her chicks will be an extension of her and will be accepted among the flock. They will assume her place in the pecking social club assuasive them to eat and drink merely like the big girls without potentially beingness killed. It'south firsthand credence past clan via the residue of the pecking order.
I realize not everyone tin can create a separate caged area within the coop for a broody hen, as most coops are quite modest. Only a small muzzle, dog kennel, true cat carrier, or even enclosing a smaller area in with chicken wire (with admission for her to get out with your control) would work well. If you lot must move your broody to a house or garage or separate area out of sight, returning her to the flock even for merely a few minutes a couple of times per week will help to retain their memories of her as a friend and not a foe.
A Quick Note: If your mother hen and chicks will not exist separated from the flock, nosotros recommend switching everyones feed over temporarily to chick starter feed (nosotros employ unmedicated starter and we ferment nigh of our feed for added diet). The mother hen will want to feed her babies what everyone else is eating and this will cut down on possible fighting over feed if everyone is eating the same matter. The actress poly peptide in the feed won't injure the older hens and this volition ensure the chicks get the proper nutrition they demand during the beginning few weeks of life. Make sure to provide grit for everyone (especially if the flock doesn't free range) and a split calcium source such as oyster shells for the laying hens. When the chicks are effectually half dozen weeks former, you can switch the flock over to grower feed.
Muddy OR SOILED NESTS
Broody hens can concur their poop in for several days at a fourth dimension to go on from having to get upward. With their concrete activity about stopping completely, their urge to become is also drastically reduced. When they do go, it will exist quite large and very smelly…the dreaded "broody poo." Most hens volition get up to relieve themselves away from or at least off the nest, but some very dedicated sitters volition poop right where they sit, then as not to risk their eggs going common cold. This is a messy and unfortunate situation, as you try to hatch the cleanest of eggs at all times, but information technology isn't an immediate bargain billow. Keeping in mind that the eggs are protected from bacteria by the flower or cuticle on the outside of the egg, aggressively wiping the poop off the eggs can also wipe off the bloom and betrayal the growing embryo inside to unsafe leaner.
If you do have a hen poop in her nest, carefully remove as much of the poop equally you can while avoiding using a wiping or rubbing action and then as hard equally it may be, exit the eggs as they are. In most cases, the hen's skin as she shuffles most over the eggs can help to make clean them just enough (which is why its of import she can still dust breast-stroke when she needs to). Chicks can and will hatch out of dirty eggs. It isn't ideal, but it's possible. Remove the muddied egg shells as presently as possible after hatch.
If the nest is very badly soiled, it may hateful tossing the eggs and starting over to avoid a bad outcome afterwards.
PROBLEM BROODY HENS
-The New Broody
In this day and age of backyard craven keeping where most flocks are a melting pot and a plethora of various breeds and barnyard mixes, broodiness is contagious. Ignore the statistics out there regarding which breeds have a tendency to go broody and which don't, equally they are very full general guidelines. A hen's "biological clock" tin start the hormone surges necessary for broodiness at any age, at any time of twelvemonth, and with any brood. Near hens will instinctively go broody in the warmer months with early on Leap being a favorite, but in that location are those hens that will go broody twelvemonth round with no regard for the weather (runted hens, especially silkies are notorious for this). A younger hen that has just begun to lay tin decide she wants to heighten some babies. In fact, I have even have several hens go broody after laying only Ane egg. But just because she shows all signs of existence broody and may even give it a solid go, doesn't hateful she will stay broody. It'due south always a good thought to accept an incubator ready in example yous have a new hen surrender a few days or fifty-fifty a few weeks into information technology. It'south unfortunate to have to dispose of eggs that are one-half adult simply because your broody gives up or changes her heed.
There are many things that tin can cause a new broody hen to give upward and return to the flock. Sometimes just messing with her besides much can interfere with her hormones (constantly lifting her up or straightening the nest, trying to hand feed her, etc.). It'southward all-time to err on the side of 'less is more' and leave her be every bit much every bit possible. Look until she gets up off the nest on her ain before you tidy upwards, candle eggs, remove any poop from the nest, etc.
-The Aggressive Broody
Suddenly your sweet and docile hen that gets along with everybody, eats treats from your easily and may even permit you pet or pick her up, is now growling at y'all from the nesting box and attempts to rip the skin off your hand the infinitesimal y'all become close to her and may even draw some serious blood in the procedure. Congratulations, you've just been properly introduced to the grumpy, hormone-crazed fauna that is the…aggressive broody.
Despite the aggravation or fear that an aggressive broody tin can have on homo handlers, a broody hen that is aggressive is really a skilful thing in the long run. It means that she isn't afraid to defend herself or her very fragile baby chicks that will be hatching before long. An aggressive broody hen rarely means she volition be tearing or aggressive with her babies and we have plant that the aggressive ones make the best protective mothers. Mean broody hens, whether they are aggressive when not broody likewise as when they are, are more often than not higher up in the pecking order which means her baby chicks will be well respected and her presence when she'southward out "in public" with her young ones will be feared.
It'southward good do to exit whatever broody hen be, but there will exist those circumstances where information technology'southward necessary to get shut to her, lift her up, move her, check on the chicks, etc. and you can't risk losing a finger in the process. If I know my hen is particularly ambitious, I will wear gloves when dealing with her (leather works best) or simply cover the hand she tin see with my shirt and let her get one practiced peck in outset. That'due south usually all it takes to let her know that I'grand not going abroad and I mean no damage and usually they will go with the period after getting that out of their organization.
If you're placing eggs underneath her, make certain to embrace the egg with your hand as you become close to her so she pecks your paw and not the egg. One good strong peck from an aggressive broody can put a pigsty right through an egg shell and so of course that egg tin no longer be used for hatching.
THE HATCHING PROCESS
A few days before the eggs are to hatch, they will brainstorm to motion slightly from the chick inside becoming more active. This usually signals to the broody hen that hatching day is rapidly budgeted. At this point, some hens may cease to get up off the nest for their daily rituals and some volition still become upwardly but their sense of urgency to return will increase. Equally the eggs begin to move and ringlet underneath her around 24-hour interval nineteen-day 20 (and sometimes sooner), she can feel fifty-fifty the smallest of these movements. She will begin to shift her weight and elevator her body off of the eggs to allow for the movement. When the chicks pip internally (break through the inner membrane into the air jail cell) and start to chirp within the egg, she will communicate back to them with a low clucking sound. The actual hatching procedure can take up to 12 hours or more and each time the chick(due south) chirp loudly and move around, she volition lift her torso weight up then as not to vanquish their frail bodies as they are emerging from their shells.
When hatching eggs in an incubator, solar day 18 is considered "lockdown" where you lot don't open up the incubator at all and you lot finish turning the eggs. There really is no set lockdown rules when hatching eggs using a broody hen, but it is a very important to non elevator up the hen during this time. The humidity levels during the hatching catamenia is extremely important because a drop in humidity can dry out the inner membranes of the egg and "shrink wrap" the chick inside. The chick may still be able to pip externally but won't be able to turn inside the egg in club to "zip" around the shell. They will essentially be trapped inside the egg and will eventually die. Information technology is possible to assist the hatch in this situation by moistening the dry membrane with a warm damp q-tip, but it is much easier to simply avoid this state of affairs at all by leaving the broody hen solitary during the hatching catamenia. It'due south heady when you hear lots of chirping coming from underneath her and you desire to peek and bank check to run into if whatsoever have hatched, but you will have to practise some patience and restraint. The mother hen will usually push the egg shells of the hatched chicks out from underneath her once the chicks are dry and offset to move around more nether her. I expect until I see eggs shells being pushed out around her or until day 22 before I check to make certain everyone hatched. If on mean solar day 23 or beyond, eggs still haven't hatched, now is the fourth dimension to candle them and see what is going on inside. If a chick has piped internally, you should be able to see some caput and beak move within the air jail cell. If your dates are spot on and the chick still hasn't hatched after day 23, and you can see the neb inside the air cell, you tin bet the chick is compress wrapped and it is your choice at that bespeak to assistance the hatch. If there is even so a nighttime solid line around the entire air jail cell and you cannot run into a nib or head and no move within, the chick may have died or may just exist extremely late to hatch. I ordinarily leave these eggs underneath the hen for a few more days just in example. She volition eventually carelessness the unhatched eggs when they bear witness no sign of life and her chicks get more than active. Recall information technology is her instinct to care for the potent and leave the weak.
THE FIRST FEW DAYS OF LIFE
If you've kept food and water out of your broody hens nesting location, now is a good time to requite her water (a poultry nipple waterer works best) and chick starter feed and close her in if possible for safety. When she was broody, nosotros like to keep the food and water at a distance to force her up, just at present the opposite is true. Nosotros place the chick feed and waterer close enough to her so she doesn't have to get up. This style she can feed and water herself while keeping the chicks warm and she can practise feeding the older chicks that hatched starting time while still staying down to cover any late eggs all the same remaining to hatch.
Don't await the mother hen to exercise likewise much with her chicks during the get-go few days after hatching. The chicks won't need to eat right away every bit the egg yolk they absorbed before hatching volition nourish them for 36 hours after hatch. Her most important job is to stay downward and continue them warm, but she will also apply this time to bond with her new babies and practice communicating with them. When they emerge from underneath her without being summoned, she will peck them gently on the caput to tell them to get dorsum underneath her. When they chirp from underneath her, she will cluck back and lift her weight up so they can move around. When she feels they are ready she will begin tidbitting to the babies as her way of calling them out to eat. She will show them what is nutrient and how to potable water. She is using this time to get acquainted with her babies and then that when she gets upward and begins to leave the nest, they volition follow her and exist able to understand her language. It's of import to be a bystander at this point and let the mother hen do all the work then she can bond with her chicks, unless of class she is exhibiting signs of being a bad mother.
TERRIBLE Mother HENS
Allow's face information technology, not all hens are fit to exist mothers, and not all hens fit to exist mothers are good mothers. Simply like with humans, whatever female tin can create offspring only it takes a certain kind of personality and cocky-sacrificing devotion to be a great mother. Well-nigh hens turn out to be lovely mothers and it'southward a wonderful affair to lookout man them care for their immature. Merely there'south e'er the other side of the coin, and there are those few hens that make terrible mothers.
-The Deserter
It'southward ordinarily a outset time female parent hen. She takes her new babies out into the big world and is then excited to be up and out of the coop that she runs off to be with the flock and forgets she has babies. Or, the chicks accept only hatched (may even all the same be wet) in the nest and not exist strong enough to walk let alone follow her and she gets up and leaves them exposed. Oops! This can usually be rectified as shortly as the chicks brainstorm to chirp loudly for her but some newbie mother hens volition simply ignore the desperate calls of the babies and continue on with her business organisation. When this happens I try to give the new mother hen some time to adjust to her new surroundings and come to her senses, acting as a temporary flagman, keeping the chicks prophylactic and warm if demand exist. But if after she repeatedly and obviously ignores the cries of her chicks, she is deemed an unfit parent and her chicks are taken abroad and raised in a brooder instead.
The aforementioned goes for a hen that retreats to the coop when it starts to get dark and leaves her chicks outside or in the run. A proficient mother hen volition do taking her chicks in and out of the coop so they know how to do it before it's bed time. An even improve mother hen will risk her ain life to crouch down where the babies are in social club to proceed them safety and warm.
The exception: Its important to exercise a nightly check on the new mother hen and her chicks for the showtime few nights that she takes them out of the nesting expanse they were hatched in, to make certain all of them made information technology dorsum with her safely. Sometimes there will exist one or two that can't figure out how to get back into the coop (or are too small to spring up if at that place's a meridian difference into the coop) even though the mother hen has tried with every effort to get them all in (mothering is hard). Past natural instinct, she volition stay with the majority of her chicks and leave the weaker one(s) if need be. This doesn't make her a bad mother, it makes her a survivor and sometimes human being assistance and intervention is needed in this case.
-The Killer
This is of course the worst instance scenario and the most feared among chicken keepers. A slap-up broody hen that shows wonderful promise, suddenly and violently attacks and kills the baby chicks as they emerge from their shells. Something within the hen's brain gets crossed and tells her that the wiggling baby chick hatching underneath her is a threat to her eggs and must exist stopped. Hopefully, you are able to catch this behavior right away and remove the balance of the hatching eggs before she is able to kill them. In a pinch, a heat lamp and a couple of warm damp wash cloths around the hatching egg (but not direct touching it) can piece of work to help hatch the eggs if you lot don't have an incubator available.
Source: https://tlbacres.com/hatching-chicks-with-mother-hens/
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